Miter-saw-user-guide - Revision history

Elise: /* GENERAL */ update photos

2024-04-25T19:19:32Z

GENERAL: update photos

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:19, 25 April 2024
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	To make cross cuts, miter cuts, bevel cuts, and compound cuts using a sliding miter saw.		To make cross cuts, miter cuts, bevel cuts, and compound cuts using a sliding miter saw.

	'''~~Hitachi C12RSH~~ Sliding Dual Compound Miter Saw'''		'''Dewalt Sliding Dual Compound Miter Saw'''

	[[File:~~Screenshot 2021~~-~~01-15 132746~~.~~png~~]]		[[File:Miter saw - side.jpg\|frameless\|400x400px]] [[File:Miter Saw.jpg\|400x400px]]

	= SAFETY =		= SAFETY =

Kbogacik: /* REFERENCE */

2021-01-24T17:11:21Z

REFERENCE

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:11, 24 January 2021
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	* Basic use and safety video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu9tYcld7ck)		* Basic use and safety video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu9tYcld7ck)

	Link to YouTube videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoY4XYe4T-8		* Link to YouTube videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoY4XYe4T-8

	= PROCEDURE =		= PROCEDURE =

Kbogacik: /* TROUBLESHOOTING */

2021-01-24T17:04:14Z

TROUBLESHOOTING

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:04, 24 January 2021
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	'''~~THIS IS THE~~ END OF THE PROCEDURE'''		'''END OF THE PROCEDURE'''

Kbogacik at 19:25, 17 January 2021

2021-01-17T19:25:52Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:25, 17 January 2021
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	'''Procedure Number'''		'''Procedure Number'''

	UG 110-04, Rev. 0		UG 110-04, Rev. 1
	\|width="33%"\|		\|width="33%"\|
	'''Date'''		'''Date'''

	~~DRAFT~~		1/17/2021
	\|}		\|}

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	= PROCEDURE =		= PROCEDURE =

			'''General'''
	* Check blade is square to table and back fencing		* Check blade is square to table and back fencing
	* Start saw with the blade fully in the up position to control torque		* Start saw with the blade fully in the up position to control torque
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	* Stopping the cut/blade – leave in down position until blade is completely stopped		* Stopping the cut/blade – leave in down position until blade is completely stopped
	* Use stop blocks for repetitive length cuts		* Use stop blocks for repetitive length cuts
	* Saw blades need to be 291 mm to 305 mm external diameter.		* Saw blades need to be 291 mm (11.5 inches) to 305 mm (12 inches) external diameter.
	* Start cutting only after motor revolution reaches maximum speed.		* Start cutting only after motor revolution reaches maximum speed.
	* During a miter or bevel cut the blade is not to be lifted until it has stopped rotation completely.		* During a miter or bevel cut the blade is not to be lifted until it has stopped rotation completely.
	* For slide cutting operation, the saw must be pushed and slid away from the operator.		* For slide cutting operation, the saw must be pushed and slid away from the operator.

			'''Operations'''

			1. Tightly secure the material by vise assembly to be cut so that it does not move during cutting.
			2. Pulling the trigger turns the saw on, releasing the trigger turns the saw off.
			3. '''Base Holder Adjustment:''' Loosen the 6 mm (1/4 inch) bolt. Adjust the base holder until its bottom surface contacts the bench.
			4. A grove should be cut on the guard to allow full penetration of the saw blade through the workpiece.
			5. '''Adjusting the guard.'''
			a. Cutting a right angle or bevel cut: Loosen the 6 mm (1/4 inch) knob bolt, bring the guard lightly in contact with the workpiece and secure.
			b. Miter cutting / bevel cutting: Loosen the 6 mm (1/4 inch) knob bolt, move the guard to the back, making sure that it is not sticking out from the fence surface.
			6. '''Cutting operation:'''
			a. The width of the saw blade is the width of the cut.
			b. After turning on the switch and checking that the saw blade is rotating at maximum speed, slowly push down the handle while holding down the lever and bring the saw blade in the vicinity of the material to be cut.
			c. Once the saw blade contacts the workpiece, push the handle down gradually to cut into the workpiece.
			d. After cutting the workpiece to the desired depth, turn the tool off and let the saw blade stop completely before raising the handle form the workpiece to return it to the full retract position.
			e. Cutting Wide Workpieces:
			i. Workpieces up to 107 mm (4.25 inches) high and 312 mm (12 inches) wide – Loosen the slide securing knob, grip the handle and slide the saw blade forward. Press down on the handle and slide the saw blade back to cut the workpiece.
			ii. Workpieces up to 120 mm (4.75 inches) in height and up to 260 mm (10.25 inches) in width can be cut in the same manner as described above.
			7. Miter cutting.
			a. Loosen the side handle and pull up the lever for angle stoppers. Adjust the turntable until the indicator aligns with desired setting on the miter scale.
			b. Re-tighten the side handle to secure the turntable in the desired position.
			c. The miter scale indicates both the cutting angle on the angle scale and the gradient on the grade scale.
			d. The gradient, which is the ration of the height to the base of the triangular section to be removed, may be used for setting the miter scale instead of the cutting angle.
			e. Miter angle fine adjustment.
			i. Rotate the turntable to the miter angle desired.
			ii. When making fine adjustments of the miter angle, turn the knob while pulling up the lever.
			iii. Turning the knob clockwise allows fine adjustment of the turntable to the right.
			iv. Turning knob counterclockwise allow thine adjustment of the turntable to the left.
			v. After adjusting the desired angle, tighten the side handle.
			8. '''Bevel Cutting.'''
			a. Loosen the clamp leer and bevel the saw blade to the left or to the right. When tilting the motor head to the right pull the set pin towards the rear. The clamp lever adopts a latchet system.
			b. Adjust the bevel angle to the desired setting while watching the bevel angle scale and indicator, then secure the clamp lever.
			c. Fine Adjustment.
			i. Grip the handle on the motor head and position it at the desired bevel angle. Temporarily tighten the clamp lever.
			ii. Turn knob while supporting the handle with your hand.
			iii. After adjusting to the desired angle, tighten the clamp lever and clamp the motor head.

	= TROUBLESHOOTING =		= TROUBLESHOOTING =

	~~TBD~~		Every cut needs to be set up properly with a square blade in relation to the fence, if you're using a fence. Problems with a compound miter saw can include issues related to the motor, blade and mechanism.

			* Look to ensure the saw is plugged in properly, and check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker if the saw won't start. Replace the brushes by removing the motor end cap and lifting the brush spring to withdraw the brush assembly. Replace with new brushes in the reverse order as they came out.
			* Access the blade by unplugging the saw, raising the arm and lowering the guard down as far as you can. Loosen the guard bracket screw until the bracket is raised up far enough to reach the blade screw. Press down the spindle lock button, and turn the blade by hand until the lock is engaged. Loosen the blade screw with a wrench, then remove the screw, the outer clamp washer blade, the blade adapter and the blade itself.
			* Inspect, clean and replace the electrical brushes if the brake doesn't stop the blade within a few seconds of turning the saw off, or if the motor doesn't start. Let the motor cool down and unplug the saw. Pull out the brush from under the cap and replace it if has less than ¼ inch of carbon on it.
			* Replace the cutting blade, turn the blade around or remove it, and clean it off with turpentine and steel wool or oven cleaner if the saw isn't making clean cuts.
			* Adjust the depth stop if the blade hits the table. Turn the saw off and remove the work piece. Drop the cutting head down so that the blade teeth extends ¼ inch below the throat plate. Loosen the wing nuts, or hex screws and readjust the blade depth to the desired depth. Try the motion again with the still saw off, and make sure the blade doesn't touch anything.
			* Adjust the cutting head assembly pivot if the cutting head won't rise after you make a cut. Loosen the lock nut on the head and then tighten the hex bolt to put more pressure on the spring. Retighten the lock nut when the right travel is obtained.


	THIS IS THE END OF THE PROCEDURE		'''THIS IS THE END OF THE PROCEDURE'''

Kbogacik: /* GENERAL */

2021-01-15T18:39:42Z

GENERAL

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:39, 15 January 2021
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	[[File:Screenshot 2021-01-15 132746.png]]		[[File:Screenshot 2021-01-15 132746.png]]


	= SAFETY =		= SAFETY =

Kbogacik: Conversion has the wrong procedure (Drill Press) downloaded, corrected to Miter Saw.

2021-01-15T18:37:24Z

Conversion has the wrong procedure (Drill Press) downloaded, corrected to Miter Saw.

Show changes

Aspontarelli: Created page with "{| |width="33%"| '''Shop Area:''' Woodshop '''Tool:''' Drill Press '''Requires in-person training:
2020-12-31T10:53:59Z

Created page with "{| |width="33%"| '''Shop Area:''' Woodshop '''Tool:''' Drill Press '''Requires in-person training:</sp..."

New page
{|
|width="33%"|
'''Shop Area:''' Woodshop

'''Tool:''' Drill Press

'''Requires in-person training:''' Yes 
|width="33%"|
'''Procedure Number'''

UG 110-06, Rev. 0
|width="33%"|
'''Date'''

DRAFT
|}

= GENERAL =

The drill press cuts holes of different sizes in different materials. It can be used to drill wood, plastics, ceramics, or metals. What matters when drilling the different materials is the type of drill bit chosen.

= SAFETY =

* Safety glasses to be worn when drilling
* Proper clamping and holding (fixtures and jigs) the wood when drilling
* Proper speed selection for size of bit and material to be drilled
* Remove chuck key prior to drilling
* Assure bit is centered in the chuck – no wobble
* Remove all loose clothing, jewelry, and confine long hair.
* Do not wear gloves.
* Assure that the bit is sharp and no imperfections

= REFERENCE =

* Basic use and safety video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu9tYcld7ck)

= PROCEDURE =

* Assure the bit is centered in the chuck, spin chuck to verify
* Use correct spindle speed – see [https://vector-space.org/sites/default/files/drill_cheat_sheet.jpg chart] attached to the drill housing
Smaller bit – higher speeds
Larger bit – lower speeds
Softer materials - higher speeds
Harder materials - lower speeds
* Place scrap wood beneath your part to avoid drilling into the table
* For deep holes, may need to peck drill to remove chips from hole
* Don't lose the chuck key
* Put bits away– don't leave them in the chuck (easy to forget)
* Use clamping when drilling small parts

= TROUBLESHOOTING =

== '''Excessive Vibration''' ==

Causes

* When the spindle or table handles go faulty, the drill press is likely to have excessive vibration.
* High power voltage can also be responsible for excessive vibration of the drill press.

Solutions

* Make sure the drill press works at a power rate that is very stable at all times. A power stabilizer can be best to secure this.
* Make sure the spindle handles are well and in place all the time, in use and out of use.

== '''Bits Wandering''' ==

Causes

* Bits wandering is caused mainly by excessive feed rate. When bits fed into the material gets too much, the bits begin to wander.
* Chuck jaws holding the bits not being in place or firmly secured can bring about bits wandering.

Solutions

* Make sure that bits being fed into material are not too much. Feed materials with the required number of bits per time.
* Also make sure that the chuck jaws are firm and properly tightened to keep the bits in its place.

== '''Noisy Operations''' ==

Causes

* The spindle getting dry can cause the drill press to begin making noise excessively thereby producing really loud noise.
* Loosed pulleys have ask been major causes of excessive noise witnessed by a number of drill press users.

Solutions

* Constantly grease the spindle to avoid it from going dry on a timely basis depending on how often and how long the drill press is used.

== '''Wood Splinters Underside (chip-out)''' ==

Causes

* The singular cause of this is when the work piece lacks the support needed in terms of back up material to keep it firm.

Solutions

* [https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/05/140507095851.htm Make use of scrap woods] or pieces under the current workpiece to give it all the support it needs.

== '''Wobbling Drill Bits''' ==

Causes

* Wrong or incorrect installation has been the major reason why bits wobble. For bits to function well, they have to be properly installed well in the chuck.
* Incorrect sharpening of the bits before putting them in their place also contribute to wobbling drill bits.
* A bent bit or a totally damaged shank can also cause the bit to wobble while being used.

Solutions

* Make sure to check the bits installation and be sure it is adequate. Any inconsistency noted in the installation should be rectified immediately
* Bits should also be well sharpened before placing them in the chuck where they should be.
* For damaged bits and shank, nothing except a replacement can be done to them. Replace damaged shank immediately to avoid further damage to the drill press.

== '''Binding or Slipping Work Piece''' ==

Causes

* Unsecured bits or improper installation of them is what is responsible for binding or slipping work piece.

Solutions

* To solve this, all you need to do is to install the bits properly and ensure they are well secured in its place.

== '''Loosening Work Piece''' ==

Causes

* For the work piece to be firm, it has to be supported by a clamp that fixes it to the table. When this clamp or support is absent, work pieces begin to loosen.

Solutions

* Make sure the work piece is well fastened to the table and supported with the clamps made available.

THIS IS THE END OF THE PROCEDURE